Philosophy

Our philosophy of training is to first inspire behaviors with motivation. Then through conditioning and repetition insure that they are done precisely, reliably and with as much motivation as possible. 

Natural Behavior

Our advanced training programs contain both traditional exercises (sit, down, etc.) as well as extremely advanced ones (Secure, Protective Escape, Rest Assured) which are more complex to teach.

All exercises are broken down into behaviors which dogs instinctively do naturally. There are the behaviors such as the “Sit” or “Down” which are common everyday behaviors. They lay down to sleep and sitting up was the first behavior they performed after crawling as puppies.

Then there are the less common behaviors such as walking backwards which is required for performing our “Secure” and “Protective Escape” exercises. Obviously dogs do not come with a reverse option. Nor do we see dogs walking backwards by themselves down the street. Yet when we look to nature we do find the behavior. Dogs, like humans, when in a tight restricted area and want to change directions instinctively do so by trying to turn around. If that is not possible, what do they instinctively do next – walk backwards!

The challenge is how to creatively inspire such natural behaviors which are not used in everyday life. That is where as a company we have had to become somewhat of “think tank” or research center of trainers developing innovative methods and techniques.

Conditioning: the use of
positive and negative reinforcement

The use of positive versus negative reinforcement is often a source of controversy among professional trainers.

The use of positive reinforcement is simple: motivate with something inspiring such as praise, affection, toys and or food. If the motivation is linked enough times to a behavior, and repeated enough times, it becomes habit. If performed amidst distractions it becomes to some degree more reliable over time. The fundamental problem is the issue of a dog choosing to do what is most pleasurable. What happens when you call your dog, who absolutely loves coming to you, and suddenly he or she sees a rabbit, a cat or squirrel running across the yard? Coming to you sure is pleasurable. Chasing the cat, rabbit or squirrel is even more so. Your beloved dog who adores you will ignore your command to come and instead chase after these sources of pleasure every time!  Obviously the reliability of purely positive motivational training is ultimately limited.

Negative reinforcement creates reliability. A “do it or else” conversation gets results if the consequences are great enough. In addition to reliability negative reinforcement alone also creates an oppressive mentality at best, and a fearful dog when taken to extremes. Effective in obtaining control but not a very appealing method of training.

Balance

Our approach is one of balance. Again, we inspire with motivation to create or induce behavior. We then condition through the use of both positive and negative reinforcement. When it comes to positive reinforcement, or motivation, our criteria is simple: as much as possible. Our criteria for negative reinforcement is equally as simple: as much as needed and as little as possible.

 

The Nuts and Bolts

There are four phases to each dog's training program at CPI.

The first is foundational training. This is essential regardless of whether a dog is untitled and has only begun training in a European dog sport and has earned titles in basic obedience and protection (sport of Schutzhund) or has earned advanced working titles such as in the French Ring or Belgian Ring Sports.

In obedience our specialized foundational training enables the dog to perform with as much motivation as possible on a long term basis, and without the need for on-going conditioning or rewards. To return to such basics when a dog is already performing off-leash obedience usually delays the finishing process by two to four weeks. The end result is a dog that finds obeying his owners deeply rewarding.

In protection this foundational training ranges from imprinting and development of drives to biting and fighting skills depending on which training program the dog has entered. Instincts and skills you may need to rely upon should you ever encounter a threatening situation.

This behind the scenes training while time consuming, and costly from a stand point of labor, is time and money well spent. Your enjoyment of your dog, and their's of you, depends on it as does your safety and well being.

The second phase is the teaching of specific skills. In obedience this includes all of the advanced exercises needed for complete off-leash control. In protection this ranges from basic through advanced handler protection skills, depending on which program the dog is being trained in.

The third phase is functionality. The third phase expands the dog's understanding of the advanced exercises from "classroom", or in our case training room, to a functional understanding. In human terms this would be similar to someone studying a martial art, learning a series of skills such as blocks, then learning how to apply them. The concept of applying them would typically start with learning how a specific block could be used against a specific strike.

The forth phase is integration. Dogs are somewhat like people, at least in the way that they can compartmentalize information. Just as you may know the name of someone in one context such as your office building, yet outside of the office you may run into them and draw a blank. The same happens with dog's when responding to commands in obedience and protection or with manners. Our task of integration therefore requires creating as many different mind sets (playful, affectionate, tired, just waking up, etc.), physiologies (laying down, standing, etc.) and environments (inside of a house, car, stair cases, etc.) as possible and requiring whatever exercises the dog would least likely expect.

Foundational Protection - The Basics of Protection

(included in all of our training programs)

Development of Drives

The first phase of training is to imprint and develop specific drives that will be required of your dog should you ever be faced with a threat. These include defense imprinting, the development of active aggression, active prey and fighting drive.

Bite Development

This development of drives is followed with bite development training. This training includes developing the strength and fullness of bite, as well as speed and targeting capabilities when sent over a distance to attack. Once completed we teach biting skills which include biting the front and back of the legs, abdomen, the outside of the upper arm, the outside of the low arm, the inside of the lower arm and finally the inside of the upper arm.

Foundational Protection - Advanced Skills

Strategic Targeting

We usually end the bite development phase with the inside of the upper right arm as part of teaching strategic targeting. As most people are right handed, if they are carrying a weapon there ability to use it will be eliminated. The leverage of an upper arm/ shoulder bite taken straight on in most cases makes it completely immobile.

In the cases of smaller dogs we will sometimes teach the crotch area for strategic targeting. While this does leave the dog more open for assault, the physical pain inflicted along with the psychological leverage (or should we say panic!), combined with the physical leverage gained by controlling their center of gravity and effecting balance can quickly subdue the most violent of attackers.

Fighting Skills

Once biting skills are taught fighting skills are then added to the program. The dog is taught to maintain their initial bite unless fought. In the case of being fought the dog must counter being fought by transferring their bite from one location to another, as needed. This also addresses the issue of a left handed person with a weapon initially being bitten in the inside of the upper right arm. As soon as they lift their left arm to strike the dog, or use a weapon, the dog transfers his or her bite to immobilize the left arm. The dog will continue to counter attack as needed until the threat is subdued and he or she is commanded to release.

The countering of attacks through transferring bites begins the first phase of teaching fighting skills. We then teach the dog how to fight violent attackers, increasing the fight as they are fought back, overcoming whatever physical obstacles or limitations they may encounter and the mental conditioning essential to endure violence over a prolonged period of time.

The dogs chosen for our Elite Family and Estate Security Dog by CPI™ program continue to receive still further training in advanced fighting skills.

Advanced Handler Protection Strategies

Our dogs are trained to respond to threats in a variety of ways depending on the type of threat, degree of threat and the command given by the owner. A strategy that works within one situation may not be the optimal response in another. The dog and owner with the most options is better prepared to respond to whatever situation they are confronted with.

The following are examples of our protective strategies and how they may be of benefit to you.

Aggressive Alert

Our protection dogs are all trained to instantly respond to any threat, regardless of its nature. In more specific terms, your dog will respond on command with an intense level of aggression and will do so for an extended period of time. The command need only be said once in a normal tone with aggression reaching a maximum level within 1 to 3 seconds. This aggression will continue until a second command is given, also just once in a normal tone, to stop or "turn off". Your dog will respond in this manner whenever instructed to do so, regardless of whether the threat is aggressive - such as someone shouting and making threatening gestures at you, forceful - such as someone making inappropriate advances and refusing to stop, or a situation in which you simply anticipate a possible threat as in the following example:

You are taking your dog for a walk, it is dusk, and someone who is walking towards you on the other side of the street suddenly crosses the street to your side. More than likely he is not a threat, nor would it be appropriate to threaten him with your dog. If, however, you have any concerns, as he crosses the street to your side you quietly give your dog a command to respond aggressively. As your dog shows aggression you simply "apologize" for having this "aggressive" dog who has already "bitten other people" and that you are about to have your veterinarian "put the dog to sleep" the following day.

Whether the person did in fact intend harm or not, he is immediately going to cross back over to the other side of the street and will not think you have just threatened him. You are safe, they feel sorry for you having such a "lunatic" for a dog, and your dog finds it somewhat entertaining. More importantly, the ability to have your dog respond aggressively, regardless of the threat, alleviates any feeling of vulnerability, and replaces it with a sense of safety and security.

As most people are not threatened on a regular basis, the following example also illustrates the functional use of this "Aggressive Alert".

The doorbell rings, it is late in the evening, and you ask with the door locked, "Who is it?" You find out that it is a neighbor from down the street. You tell him to wait just a minute and look out the window. It is in fact the neighbor. However, you just know him to wave to as you pass by him on your way home. You are aware that you know nothing about him and that most crimes which take place in the home are perpetrated by someone the victim knows. At the same time being unwilling to open the door for your neighbor also seems inappropriate.

One response is to give your dog the Aggressive Alert command before you open the door. While holding on to his collar, you now open the door with the dog showing aggression at maximum intensity. After just a few seconds of this intense aggression you give the dog the command to "turn off" with an "aggressive" voice, appearing that you are "correcting" him for being aggressive. You apologize for the dog being so "protective" and politely ask your neighbor what you can do for him.

Directed Alerts

Our Directed Alerts enable you to specify who specifically to have the dog direct his or her aggression towards. This training also provides the ability to redirect the dog from one person to another with a simple command and indication by pointing.

Directed Attacks

Our Directed Attacks enable you to specify who specifically to have the dog attack. Once the dog is biting someone you can redirect the dog from one person to another.

Without this specialized training the dog would need to be commanded to release his or her bite, be called back to you, and then directed to attack the new person. This is old school.

You have three people approaching you to rob or otherwise assault you (such as the typical home invasion). Your dog has been "turned on" in an attempt to deter the threat. One of the three pulls out a hand gun. You now need your dog to do more then just show aggression while you back out of the situation. You need your dog to attack. Once your dog attacks the person with the weapon you are now vulnerable to their other two accomplices.

You're already in a crisis state. Thinking clearly is no longer your strong suit. You now have two people coming at you and your dog is away from you biting the person who had the weapon.

In a violent situation with multiple attackers a fraction of a second makes a world of difference. You need to be able to react quickly. You need to react instinctively. You need to simply point and command. It needs to also be second nature to your dog. No steps involved. You need a dog schooled in Directed Attacks.

The Reality

It takes just 1.5 seconds for someone to travel 20 feet when attacking you. It takes the brain 7/8 of a second to initiate a response. That leaves 5/8 of a second for the solution.

The ideal solution enables you to initiate a response while instantly creating distance. That is the Secure exercise.

Aggressive Secure

The Aggressive Secure command enables you to command your dog while off-leash to protect a 360 degree radius around you. Your dog will immediately run to your side on command and remain there to protect you from anyone approaching from any direction. If someone approaches your dog will position himself or herself in between you and that person while showing aggression. If the person where to try to approach from a different angle the dog would immediately move to insure he is positioned in between you and the threat. The command can be given while walking or standing still. If the command is given while walking the dog will perform in the same way as standing still. In the case of someone approaching from behind the dog will walk backwards beside you in order to face the person as they approach. The entire time the dog is showing aggression. The dog will only attack if he or she is instructed by you, or if you are physically assaulted. Until then the person can come up to you, or pass by without any altercation with the dog.

If you are threatened, or are about to be, the Aggressive Secure will provide a very convincing deterrent. This level of aggression combined with the level of performance clearly demonstrates - this is not your average dog, nor even your average protection dog. It is a sight to behold!

Covert Secure

The covert secure functions in exactly the same way as the Aggressive Secure but without any outward sign of aggression. On command the dog immediately positions himself beside you, is aware of everything going on around you, and positions himself or herself between you and anyone approaching. The dog is actually "turned on" but is just in "stealth" mode. Should anyone attempt to assault you the dog is prepared to immediately stop them. Naturally the dog is ready, willing and able at any moment to also attack if a command is given.

Again, as most people are not threatened on a regular basis, the following example also illustrates the functional use of this "Covert Secure".

You are walking down the street and notice someone is approaching from behind. As in most cases they are probably not a threat, but you are unsure and want to feel safe and secure. You simply give the command for the Covert Secure and your dog takes care of the rest. The person will immediately notice that your dog is suddenly "glued" to your side while walking backwards and a laser like focus set on them! No outward sign of aggression. No drawing attention. Just an intense looking dog, walking backwards with eyes locked on to their every move.

If they did intend harm they will in all likelihood think twice. As a matter of fact in all likelihood the person is going to either immediately cross the street or go out of their way to walk around you. And maintain a good distance while doing so.

The innocent passerby might notice what an interesting dog you have to be able to walk backwards. They can safely approach, or walk by, without any threat of harm from the dog. At any time the dog can be "turned off" and be allowed to greet the stranger, "turned on" with any number of commands including the "Aggressive Secure", or simply be left in the covert secure while you carry on a casual conversation a foot away from this person. The choice is yours.

Protective Escape

The Protective Escape is used to back yourself out of a threatening situation. This enables you to remain protected while seeking a safe haven. When giving the command for the Protective Escape your dog instantly responds with an intense levels of aggression, as with the Aggressive Alert*. The difference is that with the Protective Escape your dog has been taught how to walk backwards while showing aggression. You simply hold the collar, give the command and the dog remains by your side while at level 10 aggression. Many clients have referred to this as having "power steering"!

This exercise also provides an excellent option in comparison to the Aggressive Alert* for individuals lacking in size or strength.

* When given the command for the Aggressive Alert your dog shows aggression while pulling at the end of the leash towards the threatening individual. This requires a level of strength that may be challenging for some of your family members. The Protective Escape provides the solution. It offers the same benefits as the Aggressive Alert in a more manageable way.

Rest Assured by CPI™

Our newest exercise, the Rest Assured by CPI™, was developed over the winter of 2006/ 2007 and included in our Elite Family and Estate Security Dog by CPI™ program in May of 2007.

The need: Many of our clients want the highest level of protection while they are asleep. At the same time between guests, contractors and domestic help entering the home on an ongoing basis many clients do not want their dogs stopping people from entering. As a result most dogs bark to alert the owner that someone is approaching but if the person just walks into the home the dog immediately accepts them. (Of course if the person is not welcomed the dog is able to be instructed to secure the house and in turn the dog does not allow anyone to enter.)

The solution: On command the dog goes directly to a specified area. The area can be the same or change depending on the circumstance. Usually the area typically chosen is at the end of a hallway where bedrooms are located. (If it is a house with two floors with bedrooms on the second floor the location would typically be at the top of the stairs. This provides a view of the downstairs and bedrooms at the same time.)

Once under command the dog remains there ready to alert and defend if necessary. Should someone approach from any direction the dog remains in the specified place but stands up and begins barking. As long as the person does not attempt to enter the specified area the dog remains in place. Should someone foolishly choose to violate this area the dog automatically stops them.

The Rest Assured by CPI™ exercise bridges the gap between the need for a friendly dog that accepts everyone during the day (unless instructed otherwise) and a highly trained dog that allows no one to enter the bedroom area or any other specified. We assume this exercise will have additional benefits that will be explored over time.